Small Town Fall · A Belle Bucket Guide

The
Shoreline

The part with almost nothing to do with the show and a steam train, a car ferry, a castle, and a movie pizza place I'd still drive for.

The shoreline is the part of this trip that has almost nothing to do with the show and I still couldn't leave it out, because it's where the fan fest is now (Guilford, Oct 16 to 18), it's where the steam train is, and it's where a town with a movie pizza place sits an hour from New Haven. So this is the "we came all this way" chapter. In the 4-day trip, Guilford is your last afternoon, and in the 7-day one Essex and Chester and Mystic are days 5 and 6, and honestly the train alone is why I'd add the days.

Geography, because this stretch confused me on the map. Guilford is about 13 miles east of New Haven on the coast. Essex is 31.9 miles from New Haven, about 39 minutes, up the river a little, and Chester is close to Essex with the ferry across to the castle. Mystic is 55 miles from New Haven, about an hour and two, and from Mystic back to Hartford is 54.7 miles and about an hour and five. So the shape of it is New Haven, then Guilford, then Essex and Chester, then Mystic, then up to Hartford to fly home, and you never backtrack.

One timing thing. The state's foliage map has southern Connecticut peaking Oct 28 to Nov 3, later than the hills, and it names the area east of Mystic as one of the best regions. So if you did the hills in mid-October, the shoreline may still be turning when you get there.

Tall ships at Mystic SeaportMystic Seaport
The Essex steam trainEssex Steam Train
1

The Guilford green and the Whitfield House

Guilford, Connecticut

Guilford was settled in 1639, the green is 7.7 acres in the middle of a historic district with 450 buildings the town counts as architecturally significant, and the Henry Whitfield House (1639) is the oldest house in Connecticut and the oldest stone house in New England. This is the town the fan fest picked after Washington and Kent and Maine. I'd walk the green, do the Whitfield House with the kids for the history part, and then lunch, because Guilford is also where The Place is, which does grilled lobster and is on the state's own list for the town.

If you're here on the Firelight weekend, the whole thing is planned for this green (with the fairgrounds as the backup venue), and chapter 6 has the $420 pass and the cast list. If you're not, it's a coastal town with an old stone house and lobster, and that's a good afternoon.

Also nearby

The state's list for Guilford also has Dudley Farm, and for sleeping there's Spark by Hilton and Tower Inn & Suites in town, plus the Red Roof and Comfort Inn the fan fest folks list. Tweed New Haven airport is 11 miles away if you're flying Avelo or Breeze.

2

Bishop's Fall Festival

480 New England Road, Guilford, Connecticut

This is the kid stop on the shoreline and it's a big one. Bishop's Orchards runs a fall festival from Sept 5 through Nov 1, 10 to 5, with a 4-acre corn maze, a pumpkin patch that opens mid-September, apple and pear picking at $15 for a 4-quart bag, and wagon rides on weekends, plus bounce pads and a slide and gem mining, which is the stuff my kids would remember over the Whitfield House. All-access is $10 online or $13 at the gate on weekdays, $15 online or $18 at the gate on weekends, and free under 24 months.

Heads up

Buy online, it's $3 cheaper per person and with a family of eight that's $24 back. Weekdays are $5 a head cheaper on top of that, so a Monday is $10 online instead of $18 at a weekend gate, but the wagon rides are weekends only, so pick which matters more to your crew.

3

Essex Steam Train & Riverboat

1 Railroad Avenue, Essex, Connecticut

You guys, a steam train in October. This is the one I'm most excited about on the whole shoreline and it's the reason day 5 exists in my plan. From Oct 1 to 25 it runs Thursday through Monday with departures at 11:00, 12:30, and 2:00, and you pick either the 1-hour train only or the 2.5-hour train plus riverboat. Train plus riverboat is $49 in coach and $65 in first class, and train only is $29 in coach. I'd do the full 2.5 hours, the boat is the part the kids will talk about, and I'd take the 11:00 so the afternoon is still open for Chester and the ferry.

There's also a dinner train on Saturdays and Sundays through Oct 25 at 11:30 am and 5:30 pm, and a Halloween one called Tracks of Terror from Oct 9 to 30 at $49.99 that I'd want more information on before I brought little ones, and on the weekend of Oct 3 and 4 there's a caboose add-on for $5 more.

Heads up

Tickets are non-refundable, and it does not run Tuesdays or Wednesdays in October, so lock your shoreline days before you buy. Also, the pumpkin patch train you may have seen online is showing 2023 information and there is no 2026 pumpkin train in the ticket shop as of when I checked, so do not promise your kids a pumpkin train, promise them a steam train and a boat.

4

The Griswold Inn

36 Main Street, Essex, Connecticut

The Griswold is one of the oldest continuously run inns in the country, and it's the mid-tier sleep I'd pick for the shoreline nights, the same way the Litchfield Inn and the Homestead are the mid-tier picks in the hills. It's on Main Street in Essex, close to the train, and if you're doing the girls trip version, this is the inn on the shoreline.

Also nearby

The fan fest lodging list also has River Wind Inn in Deep River and Copper Beech in Ivoryton, and Ivoryton has the Ivoryton Playhouse if you want a show night.

5

Chester and the Chester-Hadlyme Ferry

Route 148, Chester, Connecticut

Chester is close by, with 19th-century shops along the curve of Main Street, and I'd give it an hour on foot after the train. The town does First Fridays and there's the Goodspeed Opera House nearby.

Then the ferry. The Chester-Hadlyme Ferry has been going since 1769, it's about five minutes across the river on Route 148, and it runs April 1 through November 30. Cars are $5 on weekdays and $6 on weekends and walk-ons are $2, and it's the link between the Essex train and Gillette Castle on the other side. So the order is train, Chester, ferry, castle. My kids have never been on a car ferry and honestly for six bucks it's the cheapest thing on this list that they'd rank in the top three.

Heads up

I don't have hours or ticket prices for Gillette Castle in front of me, so check those before you count on getting inside. The ferry runs through Nov 30, so that part's safe for any October date.

6

Mystic Seaport Museum

75 Greenmanville Avenue, Mystic, Connecticut

Mystic is day 6 and it's the far end of the trip, and it's the one shoreline town we did on our own trip last October, the day before New Haven and New Milford. We didn't do the Seaport or the Aquarium (my spreadsheet had it as a rest day), we walked downtown instead. There's a drawbridge right in the middle of town, a big painted Greetings from Mystic mural where we got the family photo, a bakery with a case of cupcakes and macarons, and hot cocoa in paper cups for the walk. Somebody bought a caramel apple. The Seaport is open daily 10 to 5 from Sept 8 through Nov 1, and it's $35 for adults, $33 for seniors, $25 for youth 4 to 17, and free under 3, and they do 50 percent off in the last hour. So for a family that's already done a train and a castle and a corn maze this week, the 4 pm half-price hour might be the right amount of Seaport, and I say that with love because I've paid full price for museums my kids walked through in twenty minutes.

My kids at the rail of the Mystic drawbridgeThe drawbridge
Our family in front of the Greetings from Mystic muralThe mural
A bakery case in MysticThe bakery case
7

Mystic Aquarium

55 Coogan Boulevard, Mystic, Connecticut

The Aquarium is open 10 to 4 and it's the other Mystic kid stop. Pricing is dynamic and cheaper in advance, and the exact numbers only show up in the booking flow, so I can't print one here. If you have kids, I'd do the Aquarium in the morning at 10 when they're fresh and the Seaport in the half-price hour at 4, and pizza in between.

Heads up

Book the Aquarium ahead online, the day-of price is the worst one. And it closes at 4, an hour before the Seaport, so don't get the two mixed up.

8

Mystic Pizza

56 West Main Street, Mystic, Connecticut · 860-536-3700

It's a different movie from a different decade and it's still going. Mystic Pizza opened in 1973 and got famous after the 1988 movie, and if you grew up in the 90s like me you know exactly which movie and you're going. It's the lunch on the Mystic day, between the Aquarium and the Seaport.

How I'd do these days

In my plan Guilford is the afternoon of day 4, after Louis' Lunch in New Haven (the green, the Whitfield House, Bishop's if you have kids, The Place if you don't), and then you drive up to Essex for the night at the Griswold. Day 5 is the 11:00 train and riverboat, then Chester, then the ferry over to the castle, then back to Essex or on toward Mystic to sleep. Day 6 is Mystic: Aquarium at 10, pizza, Seaport at 4 for the half-price hour, sleep in Mystic. Day 7 is the hour up to Hartford, which is chapter 8.

If you only have the 4 days, all you get from this chapter is the Guilford afternoon, and I'd still take it, because it's 13 miles from New Haven and it's on the way to the airport in Hartford (44 miles from Guilford). The train and Mystic are the reason to find three more days, and if I'm being honest about my own family, the train is the thing I'd sell my husband on first.

And if you're a fan who's here for the Firelight weekend, this chapter is your home base. Sleep in Guilford or Madison or Branford or Westbrook (the organizers' list is in chapter 6), do the fest Friday through Sunday, and then you've got the train up the road in Essex and Mystic past that for the days after.