Small Town Fall · A Belle Bucket Guide

New
Haven

The Yale you saw was California. The real one is free to walk, has a Gutenberg Bible, and closes the good library at 6.

Okay, the Yale part first, because I don't want anybody driving 55 minutes down from Litchfield expecting to walk onto Rory's campus. The Yale you saw on the show was mostly Pomona College and USC out in California for the outside shots, the dorm rooms and the courtyards were a soundstage in Burbank, and what they got from the real Yale was stock footage and flyby shots. So the parts you'll recognize are the ones from the air, basically. I'm telling you this up front so you go for the right reason, which is that the real Yale is free to walk and the library alone is worth the drive. We spent the early afternoon here last October on our way up to New Milford.

So here's where this fits in the trip I mapped out. New Haven is day 3 of the 4-day version, and the plan is Litchfield in the morning (the green, the dairy, the scarecrows, all in chapter 5), then the 37.6 miles south to New Haven, which is about 55 minutes, and you're on campus by early afternoon with time for the tour and the two libraries before the 6 pm cutoff I'll explain in a second. Then pizza. Then sleep in New Haven, and the fan fest organizers put The Study at Yale on their lodging list, so that's the one I'd look at first.

And honestly this is the part I'd push hardest for with kids, because we homeschool and I'm not going to pretend I don't want them walking through a library with 3,301 stained glass panes and a Gutenberg Bible in the next building over. We only had time for the gates and a park by campus, where my oldest sat under a maple and read while the little boys took over the playground, and we didn't do the tour, so register for it and do the part we didn't. I'll happily use the show as the excuse to get you there.

A stone gate on the Yale campusYale, the gates
My daughter reading under a maple in a park by campusReading by campus
The nave of Sterling Memorial LibrarySterling Library
1

Yale Visitor Center

149 Elm Street, New Haven, Connecticut

Start here. The public tours are free, they run about an hour, and you have to register ahead of time, which I'd do the week before from home, please, while you still have Wi-Fi. The visitor center is open Monday through Saturday and the number is 203-432-2300. If you're a big group (a girls trip of eight, say, or a family like mine) they do private tours at $50 per guide, which split eight ways is nothing.

Heads up

Registration is required for the free tour and I could not confirm which days and times the tours run, so register on the visitor center site before you leave the hills. Do not just show up at 2 pm on a Saturday and assume. The center is closed Sundays, so if your New Haven day lands on a Sunday you're doing the campus on your own with the libraries, which is still a great day, you just won't get the tour.

2

Sterling Memorial Library

120 High Street, New Haven, Connecticut

This is the one. Sterling is the big Gothic library, and visitors are welcome in the first-floor public spaces, which means the Gothic Nave and the exhibition galleries, and it has 3,301 stained-glass panes, which is a number I keep repeating to my kids because I want them to try to count. It's free. You walk in. If there is one room in Connecticut that looks like what the show wanted Yale to look like, it's this nave, and they never filmed here, which I find kind of funny.

I'd do this right after the tour while you're already on that side of campus, and I'd give it more time than you think you need.

Heads up

Public access ends at 6 pm. After that you need a Yale ID to get in, and you don't have one, so plan the whole afternoon around being inside Sterling before 6. This is the one hard time lock of the New Haven day.

3

Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library

121 Wall Street, New Haven, Connecticut

Beinecke is where the Gutenberg Bible is, and the exhibition hall is walk-in with no reservation, which for a building holding a Gutenberg Bible feels almost too easy. Hours are Monday, Tuesday and Thursday 9 to 7, Wednesday 10 to 7, Friday 9 to 5, and Saturday and Sunday noon to 5. So on a weekday you can do Sterling first, hit the 6 pm cutoff there, and still walk over to Beinecke with an hour to spare, and on a weekend Beinecke doesn't open until noon, so flip it and do Beinecke after lunch and Sterling after that.

If you homeschool, this is the stop, and I'd have the kids read up on the Gutenberg Bible in the van on the way down so they know what they're looking at.

4

Old Campus and the Woolsey statue

Yale campus, New Haven, Connecticut

The Old Campus courtyard is free to walk and it's the closest thing to the courtyard feeling the show was going for (again, theirs was a soundstage, this one is real and has been here a lot longer). The local list also has the Woolsey statue, where the thing to do is rub the toe, and I'm not going to explain why because I don't know why, I just know it's the thing people do and my kids will do it four times each.

5

Louis' Lunch

261 Crown Street, New Haven, Connecticut · 203-562-5507

Louis' Lunch has been going since 1895 and the Library of Congress calls it the birthplace of the hamburger sandwich, and that's the reason to go. It has nothing to do with the show, and we took all six kids there for lunch on a Tuesday. It's a tiny brick building with a red front and little leaded windows, the burger comes on toast (white bread, toasted, no bun) with tomato and cheese, on a paper plate, and you eat it at these old carved-up wooden tables under the windows with your whole family squeezed onto one side. This is the day 4 lunch in my plan, because it opens at noon and the itinerary has you leaving New Haven for Guilford after.

The red front of Louis' LunchLouis' Lunch, since 1895
A Louis' Lunch hamburger on toastThe burger, on toast
All of us at a wooden table inside Louis' LunchInside
Heads up

Closed Sunday and Monday, and it doesn't open until noon any day. Tuesday and Wednesday it's 12 to 8, Thursday 12 to 11:30, Friday and Saturday 12 to midnight. So this cannot be a breakfast stop and it cannot be a Sunday stop, and if your New Haven days are a Sunday and Monday you'll miss it entirely, which is worth knowing before you set your dates.

6

Frank Pepe (and Sally's, and Modern)

157 Wooster Street, New Haven, Connecticut

Dinner on the New Haven night is pizza and I'm not taking questions. Frank Pepe has been on Wooster Street since 1925 and the white clam pie has been on the menu since 1964, and that's the one everybody says to get, so get it and then also get a plain one for the kids who will not touch a clam (I have several). Sally's is the other big name and the local list has Modern too, and people have very strong opinions about which is the right one, and you guys, I've never had any of them so I have no dog in this fight. I'd let the line decide.

Heads up

I could not confirm current hours for Pepe's, Sally's or Modern, so check before you build the evening around one of them, especially if you're coming in late from the hills. And go early with kids. These are famous places and famous places have lines.

7

Breakfast: The Pantry, Bella's, or Tandoor

New Haven, Connecticut

The local list has The Pantry and Bella's for breakfast (yes, there's also a Pantry in Washington Depot, different place, same good idea), and Tandoor, which is a 1950s chrome diner near the drama school, and honestly if you want the diner picture in your head, a chrome diner near a drama school is about as close as New Haven gets to it. I'd do Bella's for the name alone if it's a girls trip, and I'd do the chrome diner with kids because kids and chrome diners are a guaranteed good morning.

Also nearby

Atticus and Book Trader Cafe are the two bookstores on the local list. If you bought Kelly Bishop's book at Hickory Stick, this is where you buy the one for the ride home.

What's free here

I want to say this plainly because the hills part of this trip has a $15 parking lot and a $2,000 inn in it. The Yale tour, the Sterling nave, the Beinecke exhibition hall and the Old Campus courtyard are all free, so you can do a whole afternoon on campus for the cost of parking and a slice, and with a family my size that changes what kind of day it is. If you're doing the cheap version of this trip (chapter 10), New Haven is where you spend the least.

How I'd do the day

Leave Litchfield after the morning stops and get to New Haven by early afternoon. Tour first (registered ahead, please), then Sterling, then Beinecke, in whatever order the day of the week allows, with the 6 pm Sterling cutoff as the thing you're working backward from. Walk Old Campus and rub the toe, then pizza on Wooster Street, then sleep at The Study at Yale or wherever you booked. Next morning it's breakfast at one of the three above, a bookshop, then Louis' Lunch at noon, and then it's about 13 miles east to Guilford for the green and the Whitfield House and Bishop's, which is chapter 9. If you're flying out, Tweed New Haven is 11 miles from Guilford, but it's Avelo and Breeze only, so check that first, and Hartford is 44 miles.

If you're going on to Mystic instead, it's 55 miles, about an hour, and Amtrak does it in an hour and one minute, five times a day, which is a fun option if the driver needs a break and the kids have never been on a train. And if you're skipping the shoreline and heading straight to Hartford for the Emily and Richard part, that's the next chapter.

One more thing. Yale is a real school with real students in it, so walk it like a guest and keep the volume where you'd want it if it were your kid's school, and don't pose on the steps of a building somebody is trying to get into for class. The libraries let visitors in for free and I'd like that to stay true.