spokane · riverfront park · steptoe butte · palouse falls
welcome to the inland northwestWashington's second-biggest city, with the Spokane Falls running right through downtown Riverfront Park. Plus the Palouse rolling-hills wheat country an hour south, the photographer's dream and Washington's state waterfall at Palouse Falls. The eastern Washington base most West Coast travelers have never seen.
Best for
City + nature combo, photography, agritourism
From Seattle
5 hrs east · I-90 direct
Stay at least
2-3 nights · longer with Palouse photo trip
Best time
May-Oct prime · Palouse golden in June
getting your bearings
Spokane sits at the eastern edge of Washington, about 18 miles from the Idaho border and 30 minutes west of Coeur d'Alene. Population 230,000 with a metro of 575,000, the second-biggest city in Washington after Seattle. The Spokane River runs right through downtown, with the Spokane Falls thundering through Riverfront Park, the city's central anchor.
South of Spokane begins the Palouse, a 4,000-square-mile region of rolling hills covering southeast Washington, north-central Idaho, and a sliver of northern Oregon. Wheat, lentils, barley, and peas grow on hills that look like rolling green and gold quilts, especially May through August. This is one of the most photographed farmlands in America.
Downtown Spokane is anchored by Riverfront Park, a 100-acre park built around the Spokane Falls and the 1974 World's Fair site. The Pavilion, the SkyRide gondola over the falls, the Looff Carrousel (1909), and the Numerica Skate Ribbon all live here. Walking distance to the historic Davenport Hotel, Riverpark Square mall, and the Steam Plant restaurant.
South Hill neighborhood sits on the bluff above downtown with the Manito Park (90 acres with rose gardens, Japanese garden, and conservatory). Browne's Addition west of downtown is the historic mansion district. Kendall Yards across the river is the newer foodie neighborhood. Each neighborhood is walkable on its own, drive or bus between them.
The Palouse is centered on Colfax, Washington, with Pullman (Washington State University) and Moscow, Idaho (University of Idaho) as nearby anchor towns. The region produces up to 100 bushels of wheat per acre, twice the national average, with 125 million bushels per year. The hills are not natural mounds but loess (wind-deposited silt) draped over basalt bedrock from ancient volcanoes.
Steptoe Butte (3,612 ft) is the photography anchor, a National Natural Landmark with a paved road to the summit and 360-degree views of the rolling hills. Palouse Falls (198 ft) is Washington's state waterfall (designated 2014), carved 13,000+ years ago during the Ice Age Floods, surrounded by stark basalt canyon walls. Two completely different worlds within the same region.
The Palouse is best May through October. May-June brings the green peak with rolling neon-green hills. Late June to mid-July is the iconic photography window with golden wheat starting to ripen against still-green hills. August-September is harvest season with combine action and dust clouds. Fall (October) brings burnt-orange tones and the last clear weather before snow. Winter (November-March) the Palouse is brown and quiet, but Spokane stays active with skiing nearby at Mount Spokane and Schweitzer (just over the Idaho line).
getting there & getting around
5 hours east on I-90. About 280 miles. The classic Spokane drive, fast and direct. Pause at Vantage for the Columbia River crossing and the Wild Horses Monument, plus the Ginkgo Petrified Forest if you have time.
5.5-6 hours northeast via I-84 east, then I-82 north, then US-395 north. About 360 miles. The Tri-Cities route, with the Hanford Reach National Monument on the way if you want a stop.
30 minutes west on I-90. About 35 miles. The natural Idaho-Washington combo trip, with both downtowns easily day-trippable from either side.
2.5 hours north on US-395. About 160 miles. The eastern Washington loop natural pairing, with Walla Walla wine country to Spokane city as one trip.
Spokane has multiple paid garages downtown, $10-15/day, plus metered street parking that stays cheap by big-city standards. The lots ringing Riverfront Park are paid too, a few dollars an hour. Park once and walk, downtown is compact.
The Numerica SkyRide gondola runs over the Spokane Falls in Riverfront Park. $13.95/adult, $9.95/kid, 15 min round trip in enclosed cabins. The "we have an hour" downtown stop, runs daily April through October, weekends only off-season.
The state-designated scenic byway from Spokane south through Steptoe Butte, Colfax, Pullman, and ending at the Idaho line. About 200 miles of looping routes, no fixed path. The "we'll just drive and stop where it's pretty" version. Plan a full day at minimum.
5 miles of paved switchback road to the summit at 3,612 ft. Discover Pass required ($30/year or $11.50/day). Drive all the way up, walk around the 360-degree summit, multiple pullout views along the climb. Open year-round, snow can close the upper section December-February.
About 2 hours south of Spokane on US-395 to Highway 261. The last hour is a winding two-lane road through wheat country, no services. Bring snacks and water. Discover Pass required. Open year-round.
10 minutes west of downtown. Major airport with flights from Seattle, Salt Lake, Denver, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Minneapolis, Chicago, and seasonal nonstops to other cities. The fly-into-the-eastern-PNW option, often cheaper than flying into Seattle.
Cell service is solid in Spokane and along major highways. Gets spotty in the Palouse rural routes, especially near Palouse Falls and on the Steptoe Butte summit road. Download offline maps before driving Palouse routes.
Spokane is RV-friendly with multiple RV parks. Riverfront Park parking accommodates RVs. The Steptoe Butte road handles vans easily but RVs over 25 ft should not attempt the summit road. Palouse Falls parking is fine for vans, RVs over 30 ft tight.
the must-sees
100-acre park built around the Spokane Falls and the 1974 World's Fair site. The heart of downtown Spokane. Free to enter, with paid attractions inside.
The Numerica SkyRide. Gondola over the Spokane Falls. $13.95/adult, $9.95/kid ages 3-12, under 2 free. 15 minutes round trip with the best view of the falls from above. The headline Riverfront Park ride.
The Looff Carrousel (1909). Hand-carved 1909 wooden carrousel inside the Pavilion. One of only a few hand-carved Looff carrousels still running in the U.S. $3-5 per ride, family-friendly. The "kids will lose it" stop.
The Numerica Skate Ribbon. Ice skating ribbon (winter) or roller skating (summer) loop through the park. $10-15/person, family-friendly.
The Pavilion. Restored 1974 World's Fair Pavilion with a clear roof and event programming. Free to walk through. Live music and events all summer.
Spokane Falls walking trails. Free paved trails around the falls with multiple viewing platforms. The Monroe Street Bridge crossing gives the best falls photo angle. Family-friendly, stroller-doable.
90 acres of historic park with the Rose Garden, Duncan Garden (formal Renaissance-style), Japanese Garden, Conservatory, and a duck pond. Free entry to all gardens. The Spokane park that competes with Portland's gardens. Family-friendly, takes 1-2 hours, free parking.
3,612 ft quartzite butte that rises 1,000 ft above the surrounding hills. National Natural Landmark, with a 5-mile paved road to the summit. 360-degree panoramic views of the Palouse rolling hills, the Blue Mountains south, and Idaho east. Native Americans called it "Power Mountain." Discover Pass required.
Sunrise and sunset are the iconic times to be on the butte, when the low light rakes across the hills and creates the quilted look every Palouse photo shows. Summer sunrise is around 5 AM and sunset pushes 9 PM, very long days. There's a vault toilet and a small parking loop at the top, pack in everything else.
Washington's state waterfall, designated 2014. A 198-foot waterfall plunging into a basalt canyon, surrounded by stark cliff walls and the Palouse River below. One of the last active waterfalls on the Ice Age Floods path, carved 13,000+ years ago. Looks like nothing else in the PNW, with high-desert basalt and no surrounding forest.
Palouse Falls State Park has three viewing platforms at the main parking area, all paved and family-friendly. The unofficial trail down to the river is dangerous and has caused multiple deaths. Stay on the official platforms. Discover Pass required. Heads up: the little campground here is closed, the park is day-use only now.
Pullman (Washington State University) is the bigger of the two college towns, with the Cougar Country food scene and the campus museums. WSU is famous for ice cream made at the on-campus creamery (Ferdinand's Ice Cream Shoppe). Moscow (University of Idaho) is 8 miles east across the state line, with a more granola downtown vibe, the Moscow Saturday Farmer's Market, and the Appaloosa Horse Museum.
kids pick
The Spokane family day. Start with the Numerica SkyRide gondola over the Spokane Falls, then ride the Looff Carrousel (the hand-carved 1909 wooden one). Walk the Monroe Street Bridge for the best falls view. Lunch at Steam Plant Restaurant downtown. Afternoon at Manito Park for the Japanese Garden, the duck pond, and the playground. Free or under-$30 for the whole day, plus enough variety to keep ages 5-15 happy.
smaller spots most guides miss
Riverfront Park and Steptoe Butte get the headlines. Spokane and the Palouse have whole layers most weekend visitors miss.
20 minutes north of Pullman. The forested alternative to Steptoe Butte, with a 3.5-mile Pine Ridge Trail loop through ponderosa pines and Douglas firs. An "ecological island" rising from the wheat fields, family-friendly, free, often empty.
On the Washington State University campus in Pullman. Cougar Gold cheese and ice cream made right on campus by the dairy program. The WSU classic stop, kid-friendly, about $5/scoop.
30 minutes south of Pullman. Historic barn turned art gallery with a 1,000-piece wheel fence (made from antique iron wheels), local artist studios, and a small farm-store. The unexpected stop on the Palouse Scenic Byway. Free admission.
Tiny town near the Idaho border. Home of the Roy M. Chatters Newspaper and Printing Museum (Saturdays and by appointment), with antique printing presses. The Palouse River runs through town and is kayakable. Palouse Days festival each September.
37-mile paved trail running from downtown Spokane east to the Idaho border. The Spokane River Centennial Trail. Family-friendly cycling, walking, and skating, with multiple parks along the way. Free.
10 minutes northwest of downtown Spokane. 9,000-plus-acre state park along the Spokane River canyon, with the Bowl and Pitcher rock formations, suspension bridge, and 50+ miles of trails. The "we need real nature near the city" anchor. Discover Pass required.
Right on the main drag in Colfax. A 65-foot chainsaw-carved totem of football players' faces, honoring two rival teams who replayed their 1938 high school game 50 years later, same guys, in their 60s. The weirdest, most wonderful stop in the Palouse. Free, takes 10 minutes.
Downtown Spokane. 1914 historic hotel with one of the most beautiful lobbies in the PNW, hand-stenciled ceilings, two-story marble columns, and a fireplace bigger than most cabins. Free to walk through, family-friendly, the unexpected Spokane history stop. The lobby candy counter sells their famous soft peanut brittle.
trails worth doing
All distances are round trip. The Spokane area has riverside trails and rim hikes. The Palouse has limited "hiking" but Steptoe and Kamiak Butte have real trails. Cycling is the bigger outdoor activity in this region than hiking.
Spokane Falls walking loop
Riverfront Park · paved · waterfall views · family-friendly
Manito Park gardens loop
Rose Garden + Japanese Garden + duck pond
Palouse Falls platforms loop
Paved · three viewing platforms · canyon views
Steptoe Butte summit walk
Drive up · walk 360-degree summit · paved
Bowl and Pitcher trail (Riverside State Park)
Suspension bridge · river canyon · rock formations
Kamiak Butte Pine Ridge Trail
Forested loop · ponderosa pines · panoramic views
Mount Spokane Vista House
30 min northeast · 5,883 ft summit · scenic drive
Dishman Hills Conservation Area
Forested · multiple loop options · Spokane Valley
when you want low-key
Spokane is a real city with real city options. The Palouse is naturally slow. Mix both for variety.
Walk the paved paths around the Spokane Falls, watch the SkyRide gondola, ride the Looff Carrousel. The free Spokane morning that works for every age.
90 acres with the Rose Garden, Duncan Garden, Japanese Garden, Conservatory. All free. The "we need green space" Spokane stop. Family-friendly.
The 1914 historic hotel lobby with hand-stenciled ceilings and marble columns. The candy counter sells the Davenport's famous soft peanut brittle. Walk in like you own the place, wandering is free.
The state scenic byway loop through Steptoe, Colfax, Pullman, and the Idaho line. 200 miles of looping routes, no fixed path. Slow Sunday driving with photo stops.
The 37-mile paved trail from downtown Spokane east to Idaho. Rent bikes downtown, ride as far as you want. Family-friendly, mostly flat, paved.
Walk the WSU campus in Pullman, end at Ferdinand's Ice Cream Shoppe for Cougar Gold cheese and ice cream. The "we did the Palouse college town" afternoon.
where to eat
Spokane has the food density of a real city. Multiple farm-to-table anchors, a diner in a 1906 railcar, and a thriving Kendall Yards neighborhood. The Palouse is sparse on food, plan to eat in Spokane, Pullman, or Moscow.
Frank's Diner. Downtown Spokane. Classic American breakfast in a converted 1906 railroad car, big portions, family-friendly. The Spokane breakfast institution. About $12-18/person.
The Yards Bruncheon. Kendall Yards. Modern brunch with a creative menu, family-friendly. About $15-25/person.
Cole's Bakery & Cafe. Downtown. Real bakery with breakfast pastries, breads, and breakfast sandwiches. The locals' morning stop. About $8-12/person.
Steam Plant Restaurant. Downtown. Set inside a converted 1916 steam plant, with the original smokestacks soaring above the dining room. Family-friendly with a great menu, classic burgers to seafood. The "we want a Spokane-only experience" lunch. About $20-35/person.
Anthony's at Spokane Falls. Downtown overlooking the falls. Pacific Northwest seafood with the best falls view in the city, family-friendly. About $25-45/person.
Wisconsinburger. Downtown. The Wisconsin-style burger and beer joint, family-friendly. The casual lunch that everyone agrees on. About $12-18/person.
Boots Bakery & Lounge. Downtown. Vegetarian and vegan-friendly cafe with a real bar and live music in the evenings. The "I want something lighter" lunch. About $14-22/person.
Mizuna. Downtown. The Spokane fine-dining anchor for 25 years, with seasonal Pacific Northwest cuisine. Reservations essential. The "we got dressed up" Spokane dinner. About $50-90/person.
Wild Sage Bistro. Downtown. Farm-to-table fine dining with a thoughtful wine list. About $40-70/person.
Clinkerdagger. Downtown overlooking the falls. The classic Spokane special-occasion restaurant since 1974, steaks and seafood with the falls view. About $40-70/person.
David's Pizza. By the Arena, a short walk from Kendall Yards. The Spokane pizza institution, loud and casual with pies the whole car agrees on. The "kids will love it" family dinner. About $12-20/person.
Pullman: South Fork Public House for steaks, Black Cypress for Mediterranean, The Old European Restaurant for Swedish breakfast. Moscow, Idaho: Hunga Dunga for craft brewery, Sangria Grille for Mediterranean. Colfax has limited options, plan to drive to Pullman (30 min) or Spokane (1 hr) for real dinner.
Ferdinand's Ice Cream Shoppe. WSU campus, Pullman. Cougar Gold cheese and the school's own dairy-science-made ice cream. The WSU classic stop. About $5/scoop.
The Scoop. Downtown Spokane. Local ice cream shop with creative flavors, family-friendly. About $5-7/cone.
Just American Desserts. Spokane Valley. Slices of cake and full dessert menu, the "we want dessert as the meal" anchor. About $7-12/dessert.
where to spread the blanket
Riverfront Park. 100 acres downtown with multiple picnic tables, lawns, and the Spokane Falls views. Free, easy parking, restrooms. The most-recommended Spokane picnic.
Manito Park. 90 acres south of downtown with picnic shelters, the rose garden, and the duck pond. Free, family-friendly, easy parking. The garden-picnic option.
Riverside State Park (Bowl and Pitcher). 10 min northwest. Riverside picnic tables with the suspension bridge view, plus 50+ miles of trails. Discover Pass required.
Steptoe Butte pullouts. On the switchback road up the butte. The 360-degree Palouse view, tailgate-picnic style. Bring everything, there are no services on the butte. Discover Pass required.
Palouse Falls picnic area. At the main parking. Tables with the canyon view, the dramatic backdrop most picnics don't have. Discover Pass required.
Kamiak Butte County Park. 20 min north of Pullman. Forested picnic shelters with the rolling Palouse views. Free, family-friendly.
amy's check
For traveling families: what's nearby and what's not. Spokane has everything as a real city. The Palouse has almost nothing, so stock in Spokane before heading south.
Costco
Multiple around Spokane and the Valley · easy resupply
Target
Multiple Spokane locations · plus Spokane Valley
Trader Joe's
South Hill at 2975 E 29th Ave · 10 min from downtown
Chick-fil-A
Multiple Spokane locations · plus a Spokane Valley location
groceries, gas & van basics
Spokane is a real city with everything. The easiest resupply stop in eastern Washington. The Palouse south of Spokane has limited services so stock up before heading south.
In Spokane, full coverage with Safeway, Albertsons, Fred Meyer, Rosauers, Trader Joe's, WinCo Foods, and Yoke's Fresh Market. The big-box grocery scene that Walla Walla and Hood River can only dream of.
In the Palouse south of Spokane: Pullman has Safeway and Dissmore's IGA, Colfax has a small Yoke's, Moscow ID has full Safeway and a Co-op. Stock up in Spokane or Pullman for Palouse photo trips, Colfax is the only resupply for most of the loop.
Spokane has the lowest gas prices in eastern Washington. Costco gas at multiple locations. Fill up in Spokane before heading into the Palouse loop. Colfax and Pullman have gas but at city-edge premium prices. Palouse Falls drive has no gas in the last 60 miles, fill in Spokane or LaCrosse before the final stretch.
Public restrooms at Riverfront Park, Manito Park, the Spokane Public Library, Davenport Hotel lobby, and most downtown businesses. Drinking fountains throughout Riverfront Park and Centennial Trail. Palouse Falls and Steptoe Butte both have restrooms, but pack water for the rural drives.
RV dump stations at Riverside State Park, Spokane RV Resort, and most KOAs. Free for guests, $10-15 for non-guests. Public trash bins at all parks and downtown.
Base in Spokane for the city + day-trip the Palouse. Spokane has the food, hotels, and resupply. The Palouse is best as a long day trip or short overnight in Colfax. Drive south early morning to Steptoe for sunrise (the iconic shot), back to Spokane by lunch, optional drive to Palouse Falls in the afternoon, back for dinner.
For families: Spokane works as a Coeur d'Alene combo trip. The two cities are 30 minutes apart. Stay in one, day-trip the other. Both have great waterfronts, both have family-friendly parks, both have real food scenes. Spokane has more big-city options, CdA has more lake-vacation feel.
hotels, inns & van
Spokane has hotel variety as a real city. Historic downtown landmarks, riverside resorts, modern boutiques, plus full chain coverage. The Palouse has limited lodging, with Colfax and Pullman as the main bases. Most travelers base in Spokane and day-trip the Palouse.
Budget · $110-$180/night
The "we just need a bed in Spokane" tier
Holiday Inn Express & Suites Downtown. Walking distance to Riverfront Park. Free breakfast, indoor pool, family-friendly. About $130-$180/night.
Hampton Inn & Suites Spokane Downtown. Two-block walk to Riverfront Park. Reliable chain, free breakfast, modern rooms. About $140-$200/night.
Comfort Suites Downtown. Affordable suite option. Two-room suites, indoor pool, free breakfast, family-friendly. About $120-$170/night.
Mid-range · $180-$320/night
Real character, real downtown
The Davenport Tower. Modern sister hotel to the historic Davenport. Walking distance to Riverfront Park, with a real bar and restaurant on-site. About $200-$300/night. The "we want the Davenport experience at a friendlier price" option.
Centennial Hotel. Riverside in Kendall Yards across the river. Modern hotel with a real food scene at the doorstep. About $190-$280/night.
The Davenport Grand. Across the street from Riverfront Park. The modern, glassy sister to the Historic Davenport, big rooms, family-friendly. About $220-$320/night.
Splurge · $320-$650/night
When you want the full Spokane experience
The Historic Davenport Hotel. 1914 landmark. The most-iconic hotel in eastern Washington, with hand-stenciled ceilings, marble columns, and the legendary lobby. Multiple restaurants on-site including Palm Court Grill. About $300-$500/night. The "I want to stay in the building everyone photographs" Spokane choice.
Northern Quest Resort & Casino. 15 minutes west of downtown. Full resort with multiple restaurants, spa, pools, and casino, family-friendly with kid programs. About $250-$500/night. The "we want everything on property" option.
Most photographers base in Colfax, Pullman, or Moscow Idaho. Best Western Wheatland Inn Colfax is the most-central Palouse base at $130-$180/night. Pullman has Holiday Inn Express, Hilton Garden Inn, and Residence Inn around the WSU campus, $160-$240/night. The Hillcrest Motel in Moscow ID is the budget pick at $90-$130/night. Photographers focused on Steptoe Butte sunrise should base in Colfax for the shortest predawn drive.
Vrbo and Airbnb have lots of options in downtown Spokane, Kendall Yards, South Hill, Coeur d'Alene (30 min east), and rural Palouse farmhouses. Spokane downtown lofts are family-friendly options for 4-6 at $200-$400/night. Palouse farmhouse rentals are the unique stay if you want a working-farm experience, $150-$300/night. Book 1-2 months ahead for summer weekends.
Van life · campgrounds
Multiple state, county, and private RV options
Riverside State Park. 10 minutes northwest of downtown Spokane. 30-some sites at the Bowl and Pitcher campground, some with hookups, $25-$45/night. The closest state park to downtown Spokane, books 2-4 months ahead for summer weekends.
Mount Spokane State Park. 30 minutes northeast. A handful of forested primitive sites at elevation, $25-$35/night. The cooler-temperature option in summer heat.
Spokane RV Resort. South of downtown. Full hookups, family-friendly, easy in-and-out, $45-$65/night.
Palouse Falls camping is closed. The park went day-use only, so no overnight at the falls. Lyons Ferry, 15 minutes south, is the closest place to sleep.
Kamiak Butte County Park. 9 primitive sites near Pullman. Forested setting, $12-$15/night. The hidden Palouse camping option.
Where you can't sleep: No overnight at Steptoe Butte summit (day-use only), no overnight at Riverfront Park, Walmart Spokane Valley allows overnight, most Spokane churches and big-box stores prohibit overnight parking.
The Historic Davenport Hotel, The Davenport Tower: 2-3 months ahead for summer and special-event weekends (Hoopfest in late June, Bloomsday in early May). Hoopfest weekend books 6+ months out.
The Davenport Grand, Centennial Hotel: 1-2 months ahead for summer weekends usually works.
Riverside State Park: 6 months ahead at washington.goingtocamp.com for summer weekends. Books fast for July-August.
Palouse Falls: Day-use only now, the campground is closed. The Lyons Ferry KOA down the road is the closest overnight.
Vacation rentals: 2-3 months ahead for summer (July-August). Palouse farmhouse rentals book early for the June photography weeks.
Photography season (late June through July): Book Colfax and Pullman lodging 2-3 months ahead, photographers know about the iconic green-and-gold Palouse window.
Hoopfest (late June) and Bloomsday (early May): Spokane sells out 4-6 months ahead. These are the two biggest weekends of the Spokane year.