chapter

Seven

regional deep dive · part five

Columbia River Gorge & Eastern Washington

The 80-mile river canyon between Oregon and Washington, the highest concentration of waterfalls in North America, the historic 1916 Columbia River Highway, and the wide-open eastern Washington country stretching from Hood River to the Palouse. The PNW you drive through without realizing how good it is.

The Columbia River Gorge is the canyon the river carved between Oregon and Washington, with basalt cliffs rising up to 4,000 ft from the water and waterfalls falling off every wall on the Oregon side. The west end is the headline: Vista House at Crown Point, Latourell Falls, Bridal Veil, Wahkeena, Multnomah Falls, the Historic Columbia River Highway. Multnomah alone gets 2 million visitors a year, the tallest waterfall in Oregon at 620 ft.

The east end opens up into different country. Hood River sits on the river with windsurfing on the water and fruit orchards on the slopes leading up to Mount Hood. The Fruit Loop is a 35-mile farm-stand drive through pear orchards, lavender fields, cideries, and breweries. Different rhythm than the waterfall side, slower and more agricultural.

Keep driving east and you cross into eastern Washington and the wide-open inland country. Walla Walla is the wine capital, with 120+ wineries in the surrounding hills. Spokane is the second-biggest city in Washington, anchoring the eastern half of the state. And the Palouse south of Spokane is the rolling-hills wheat country that photographers fly across the country for.

The chapter has four areas: Columbia Gorge west (the waterfall side), Hood River & the Fruit Loop, Walla Walla & wine country, and Spokane & the Palouse. Each gets its own page.

highest 620 ft

multnomah falls drop

about 90 falls

in the gorge alone

over 120 wineries

around walla walla

about 30 min

portland to multnomah falls

first

getting oriented

How this chapter is laid out

The Gorge runs east-west, with Portland at the west end and Hood River at the east end. The eastern Washington stuff lives further east. Pick a base, then day-trip.

The west Gorge is easy to do as a day trip from Portland. 30 minutes east on I-84 puts you at Multnomah Falls, the iconic shot most people drive to and back. The Historic Columbia River Highway (US-30) is the scenic parallel road that connects all the major waterfalls and Vista House. Take the scenic highway east to slow down at every waterfall, then return on I-84 when you're done.

Hood River is the natural overnight base if you want to spend more time. About 60 miles east of Portland, 1 hour drive, with real hotels, real restaurants, and the Fruit Loop right there. The east Gorge has a completely different vibe, less waterfall-heavy and more agricultural, with Mount Hood looming directly above the town.

Walla Walla and Spokane are different trips, not "drive over after lunch" stops. Walla Walla is 4 hours east of Portland, Spokane is 5.5 hours east of Seattle. Most families don't combine them with the Gorge in one trip, they're separate vacations.

The four areas in this chapter

the waterfall side

Columbia Gorge West

The historic highway, Vista House at Crown Point, Latourell, Bridal Veil, Wahkeena, Multnomah Falls. 30 min east of Portland. The most-photographed stretch of the PNW. Day-trippable from Portland.

the fruit side

Hood River & the Fruit Loop

The 35-mile farm-stand drive through orchards, cideries, and lavender fields with Mount Hood as backdrop. Windsurfing on the Columbia, the Mount Hood Railroad, the gateway to Mount Hood itself. 1 hr east of Portland.

wine country

Walla Walla & wine country

120+ wineries, the most-celebrated wine region in the PNW. Real downtown food scene, family-friendly tasting rooms, the historic Whitman Mission. 4 hrs east of Portland.

the eastern hub

Spokane & the Palouse

Washington's second-biggest city. Riverfront Park, the Spokane Falls in the middle of downtown, plus the rolling Palouse wheat country an hour south. Gateway to Coeur d'Alene 30 min east. 5.5 hrs east of Seattle.

heads up

The 2026 closures to know about

Multnomah Falls timed entry runs May 22 through September 7, 2026. You need a reservation to access the parking lot during this window. Reservations open 14 days in advance at recreation.gov for $2 per vehicle, with a second batch released 2 days out at 7 AM if you miss the first window. Permits are only needed between 9 AM and 6 PM daily, arrive before 9 and you skip the whole system. Outside the season (September 8 through May 21), no reservation needed.

Eagle Creek Trail and Wahclella Falls both reopened May 1, 2026 after closures from the December 2025 storms. Check the U.S. Forest Service website for current conditions before you go, repairs in the burn zone can close them again on short notice.

The Multnomah Falls restrooms are closed for renovation through November 2026, so plan bathroom stops in Troutdale or Cascade Locks. The car-free Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail is also impassable between Eagle Creek and Cascade Locks after a December landslide.

East Multnomah Falls Viaduct construction closed the Historic Highway east of Multnomah Falls from October 2025 into spring 2026, and corridor work continues. Check TripCheck before driving, especially on weekends.

the season

The Gorge is best in spring and fall

Spring (March-May) is wildflower season. Rowena Crest peaks with balsamroot and lupine in late April. Waterfalls run at peak volume. The Fruit Loop blossoms peak mid-April through early May.

Summer (June-August) is peak crowds and timed-entry season at Multnomah. Hot temperatures inland (90+ at Hood River and Walla Walla). U-pick fruit season starts in June with cherries.

Fall (September-October) is harvest season at the Fruit Loop and a great window for the eastern Washington wineries. Cooler temperatures, golden cottonwoods, and the timed-entry restriction ends September 7.

Winter (November-February) is moody and quiet. Waterfalls still run but ice closures happen on the Historic Highway. Vista House closes when winds hit 50 mph. Hood River and Mount Hood ski resorts are open with snow.

explore each area

tap into your stops

Four places worth your real attention

Each one has its own dedicated page with food, hikes, where to stay, drive notes, fun things to do on a slow day, and the resupply info you need.

finally

putting it together

How to plan your time

The Gorge is a day trip from Portland. Hood River is a weekend. Walla Walla and Spokane are their own trips. Don't try to do all four in one go.

If you have a half-day (Gorge day trip)

From Portland, drive the Historic Columbia River Highway east. Vista House at Crown Point first (15 min). Latourell Falls (30 min walk). Multnomah Falls and Benson Bridge (45 min). Lunch at Multnomah Falls Lodge or back in Portland. This is the half-day greatest-hits version, totally doable in 4-5 hours including the drive.

If you have a full day

Same as above plus Wahkeena Falls (the quieter twin of Multnomah), Horsetail Falls, and the Bonneville Dam fish hatchery. Lunch at Bonneville Dam picnic area or Cascade Locks. The full west Gorge day. Add Hood River late afternoon if you want dinner with a view.

If you have a weekend (2-3 days)

Base in Hood River. Day 1: West Gorge waterfalls, Vista House, Multnomah, drive east to Hood River. Day 2: The Fruit Loop (the 35-mile farm-stand drive), with cherries or pears or cider tastings depending on season. Lunch at pFriem Family Brewers or Solstice Wood Fire Cafe in Hood River. Day 3: Either Mount Hood (Timberline Lodge, an hour south of Hood River) or windsurfing watch on the Columbia.

If you have 4-5 days (Gorge + Walla Walla)

Days 1-2: West Gorge waterfalls and Hood River as above. Day 3: Drive east on I-84 to Walla Walla (3 hours from Hood River). Days 4-5: Walla Walla wineries, downtown food, Whitman Mission. The east-side wine trip with the Gorge bookended.

If you have a week (Gorge + Eastern WA full)

Days 1-2: Gorge + Hood River. Days 3-4: Walla Walla. Days 5-6: Drive north to Spokane (3 hrs), Spokane downtown plus a Palouse drive day. Day 7: Drive back via Coeur d'Alene if you want to bookend with Idaho. The full eastern PNW.

our routes

Direct route picks for this chapter

For day-by-day versions, head to Chapter 13 where we lay out the full routes:

→ The Portland Weekend (3 days, Portland + Gorge + Cannon Beach)

→ The Fall Color Loop (7 days, Hood River fruit + Gorge fall + larches)

→ The Full PNW Two-Week Tour (Gorge included)

one more thing

The west Gorge gets seriously crowded

Multnomah Falls is the most-visited natural attraction in Oregon. Weekend midday in summer is brutal. Arrive before 9 AM or after 5 PM if you can. The timed-entry permit window (May 22 to Sep 7) helps spread crowds but doesn't eliminate them. Tuesday-Thursday mornings are the sweet spot if your schedule allows.

Cell service is spotty in the Gorge between Multnomah and Hood River. Download offline maps. Vista House closes in high winds (50+ mph), check before you drive up. Eagle Creek Trail and Wahclella Falls reopened May 1, 2026 after the December storm closures, check conditions before you commit the day.