paradise · longmire · ohanapecosh · the wildflowers
welcome to the south sideThe most-visited part of the park and the one most first-timers should pick. Paradise has the wildflower meadows, the historic 1916 Inn, and the Skyline Trail. Longmire has the museum, the National Park Inn, and the lower forests. Year-round access via the Nisqually entrance.
Best for
First-timers, wildflowers, day hikes, glacier views
From Seattle
2 hrs · 95 mi via I-5 + WA-7 + WA-706
Stay at least
2 nights · 3 if you can
Best time
Late July through mid-August · peak wildflowers
getting your bearings
The south side of Mt. Rainier covers three distinct areas, all reached from the southwest corner of the park. The Nisqually Entrance is the only one open year-round. The other south-side entrance (Stevens Canyon) is open roughly late May through October.
Longmire sits at 2,762 feet, 6.5 miles inside the Nisqually Entrance. The historic district has the National Park Inn (1906, open year-round), the Longmire Museum, the Wilderness Information Center, and the Trail of the Shadows nature loop. Lower elevation, forested, this is where you'll be when the upper park is socked in clouds.
Paradise sits at 5,400 feet, 19 miles inside the Nisqually Entrance. The headline. Subalpine wildflower meadows, the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center, the historic 1916 Paradise Inn (open mid-May through early October), and the Skyline Trail. The whole park revolves around this place. About 45 min drive from the entrance gate to the Paradise parking area, with stops at Christine Falls, Narada Falls, and Longmire along the way.
Ohanapecosh sits at 1,914 feet on the southeast side, reached via the Stevens Canyon Entrance off Highway 123. Ancient old-growth forest, a snow-fed river, and Silver Falls. The forest counterpoint to Paradise's alpine meadows.
The entire Ohanapecosh developed area is closed for all of 2026 for a major rehabilitation project. That means the campground (185 sites being upgraded), the visitor center, the picnic area, the restrooms, and the river access, all fenced off through the season, expected to reopen for 2027. Silver Falls is still reachable (see below), but plan around the rest. The nearest dump station is at Maple Grove Resort, 28 miles west on Highway 12.
SR-123 construction is ongoing on the 2.8-mile stretch near the Stevens Canyon Entrance between April and October 2026. Expect delays of up to 30 minutes. Plan extra time if you're driving in from the east side.
The Grove of the Patriarchs is still closed. The suspension bridge to the old-growth island has been out since November 2021 flooding. Construction is scheduled for summer 2027. The trailhead parking lot and restrooms are open, and you can hike the Eastside Trail to Silver Falls, but you can't reach the actual grove.
Mt. Rainier's subalpine meadows are world-famous for a reason. Peak bloom at Paradise runs late July through mid-August in a typical year, but it depends entirely on snowmelt. A heavy snowpack year delays bloom by 1-2 weeks. Lupine, scarlet paintbrush, magenta paintbrush, avalanche lily, fireweed, sitka valerian, mountain daisy, columbine, monkey-flower. The park posts wildflower status updates online during the season.
The most important rule: stay on the trails. Subalpine meadows take years to recover from a single off-trail step. The plants live by thin margins, and the millions of visitors who come to see them are now the biggest threat. Keep your kids on the path even when the photo would be better off it.
The National Park Service announced in February 2026 that Mt. Rainier will not require timed entry reservations anywhere in the park this year. The pilot system that ran 2024-2025 has been retired. That doesn't mean no waits. Expect 60+ minute lines at the Nisqually Entrance between 8 AM and 4 PM in July and August. The fix: arrive before 7 AM or after 4 PM. Sunset at Paradise runs around 9 PM in July. Weekday visits beat weekends every time.
getting in & getting around
The drive in is part of the experience. Stop for waterfalls along the way up. Plan more time than you think you'll need.
2 hours via I-5 south to exit 127, then WA-512 east, WA-7 south through Elbe to WA-706 east. About 95 miles to the Nisqually Entrance. Avoid Friday afternoons in summer when traffic on WA-7 backs up for miles. Fill up gas in Eatonville or Elbe before you reach the park.
90 minutes via WA-7 south through Eatonville and Elbe. The drive is genuinely pretty through farmland and small mountain towns. Stop at the Pioneer Farm Museum in Eatonville if you have kids and time. Mile-long views of the mountain on clear days.
3 hours via I-5 north to Centralia, then US-12 east through Morton and Packwood, then north on Highway 123 to the Stevens Canyon Entrance (open late May-October only). If Stevens Canyon is closed, continue around to Nisqually via WA-7. Add 90 min.
$30 per vehicle, valid 7 consecutive days. Annual park pass $55. The America the Beautiful pass ($80/year) gets you into all national parks and pays for itself fast on a multi-park PNW trip.
19 miles from the Nisqually Entrance to the Paradise parking area, about 45 minutes with stops. Stop for Christine Falls (mile 7) and Narada Falls (mile 11) on the way up. Both are right off the road. The road has tight turns and steep grades, drive carefully especially in early morning fog.
Two main lots with about 200 spaces each, plus overflow on the one-way exit road. Lots fill by 10 AM on summer weekends. If both Paradise lots are full, drive to Reflection Lakes (4 miles past Paradise on Stevens Canyon Road), park there, and walk the Lakes Trail back to Paradise. Adds about 4 miles round-trip but solves the parking problem.
RVs handle the south-side roads fine. The road from Longmire to Paradise has steep grades, downshift on the descent. No RV camping at Longmire. Cougar Rock Campground (between Longmire and Paradise) handles RVs up to 35 ft, no hookups. Most rigs over 30 ft do better at private campgrounds in Ashford or Packwood.
the must-sees
The Skyline Trail. The signature hike of the entire park. The full 5.5-mile loop climbs through wildflower meadows to Panorama Point at 6,800 feet, where you stand less than 3 miles from the Nisqually Glacier's terminus. 1,700 feet of elevation gain, most of it in the first 2 miles. Arguably the best day hike in any national park in the lower 48. Plan 4-5 hours. Start at 7 AM if you can to beat the crowds and the afternoon clouds.
Myrtle Falls. A 1-mile round-trip walk from the Paradise parking area to a waterfall with the mountain framed perfectly behind it. The most photographed spot in the park. The first stretch of the Skyline Trail, paved and stroller-accessible to the falls overlook. Plan 30-45 min including photos.
Nisqually Vista Trail. A 1.4-mile paved loop with a stunning Nisqually Glacier overlook. The glacier is visibly smaller every year, the interpretive signs make this real for kids. Best done in late afternoon when the upper meadows are crowded and this loop is quieter. Plan 45 min.
Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center. The main Paradise visitor center, recently renovated. Exhibits on the mountain's geology, glaciers, and ecosystems. Ranger talks throughout the day in summer. Cafe with hot food, snacks, and water bottle refills. Free wifi. Plan 30-45 min to walk the exhibits, more if you have curious kids.
Paradise Inn. The 1916 historic hotel built from cedar logs cut in the park. Even if you're not staying, walk through the Great Hall with the massive stone fireplace, eat lunch in the dining room, sit on the porch and watch climbers heading up the mountain. Open mid-May through early October only. Reservations 6-9 months out for prime summer rooms.
Trail of the Shadows. A 0.7-mile loop through old-growth forest right across from the National Park Inn. Bubbling mineral springs, a homesteader cabin, easy walking. Stroller-friendly, kid-friendly. Plan 30 min.
Longmire Museum. Small free museum in the historic Longmire Administration building. Park history, native artifacts, the story of James Longmire's hot springs resort. Worth 20 minutes on a rainy day when Paradise is socked in.
Christine Falls. A two-tier waterfall right off the road, 7 miles inside the entrance. Walk down the short stairs to the stone bridge for the iconic photo. One of the most photographed waterfalls in Washington. Free, open year-round, plan 15 min.
Narada Falls. A 168-foot waterfall reached via a steep 0.2-mile trail from the parking pullout, 11 miles inside the entrance. Walk down to the lower platform for the rainbow shot in the spray. The trail back up is steep, take it slow with kids. Plan 30 min.
Silver Falls Trail. An old-growth walk along the Ohanapecosh River to a powerful 75-foot waterfall. The best easy-to-moderate hike in the southeast section. In 2026, start from the Grove of the Patriarchs trailhead just inside the Stevens Canyon Entrance (about 3 miles round trip via the Eastside Trail), because the visitor-center side is fenced off for the campground rehabilitation. No Discover Pass needed, the park entrance fee covers it. Plan 90 min-2 hrs.
Ohanapecosh Visitor Center. Closed for all of 2026 along with the rest of the Ohanapecosh developed area while the campground rehabilitation runs. Expected back for 2027. Until then, get ranger info and exhibits at Longmire or the Jackson Visitor Center at Paradise.
Box Canyon overlook. A short 0.5-mile loop on Stevens Canyon Road between Ohanapecosh and Paradise. Stand on a bridge over a 100-foot deep canyon the river carved through solid rock. The kind of stop that's quick but unforgettable. Free with park admission.
Reflection Lakes. Two small lakes 4 miles east of Paradise on Stevens Canyon Road that mirror the mountain on calm mornings. Get there at sunrise (5-6 AM in summer) for the still-water reflection. Free roadside parking. Plan 30 min including photos. The single most-photographed sunrise spot at Mt. Rainier.
kids pick
Best Rainier day for kids who don't love long hikes. Drive in via the Nisqually entrance, stop at Christine Falls for the bridge photo. Continue up to Paradise and walk to Myrtle Falls (1 mi round-trip, paved, mountain views the whole way). Eat lunch at the Paradise Inn dining room or grab to-go from the visitor center. Drive back down to Cougar Rock Campground picnic area for an afternoon of running around in the meadow. Drive home via Reflection Lakes for sunset photos. Iconic Rainier views, kid-paced, no melt-downs.
smaller spots most guides miss
Paradise gets all the attention. The south side has whole pockets of beauty that even repeat visitors don't know about.
A pull-off on Stevens Canyon Road between Reflection Lakes and Paradise with a sweeping view across a dramatic valley. Almost no one stops because most people are racing to Paradise. Free roadside parking, 5 min stop, completely different angle on the mountain.
A 1880s working pioneer farm in Eatonville on the drive from Tacoma to the park. Kids milk goats, churn butter, ride wagons. The kind of unhurried stop that turns a travel day into a memory. About $14-$17/person. Open May through September.
A 1.4-mile round-trip walk to a small waterfall on the Wonderland Trail, starting near Cougar Rock Campground. Almost no one hikes this because they're saving energy for Paradise. Forested, easy with kids, completely uncrowded.
The 1906 inn at Longmire serves a sit-down breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a fireplace and view of the mountain on clear days. Open year-round, unlike Paradise Inn. The Sunday breakfast plate is the move. Walk-in usually works except for July weekends.
Free Junior Ranger booklet at any visitor center. Kids complete activities (count wildflowers, spot a marmot, attend a ranger talk) and get sworn in with a badge by a real park ranger. One of the best free things in any national park. Best for ages 5-12.
About 30 min east of the Nisqually entrance on WA-410, this 619-acre state park has stunning old-growth Douglas fir and hemlock with easy interpretive trails. A great backup if Rainier is socked in clouds. Discover Pass required.
The official sledding area at Paradise is open early December through early April. Bring soft-bottomed sleds (no metal runners). The road from Longmire to Paradise stays plowed and open year-round but tire chains are often required. One of the cheapest winter family adventures in the PNW.
A 3.5-mile loop near Tipsoo Lake on Highway 410 (technically straddling the south and north sides). Best fall colors in the park, peak in late September. Wildflowers in late July. Way less crowded than Paradise. Park at the Tipsoo Lake lot (park side) or the Chinook Pass lot (forest side, Northwest Forest Pass).
trails worth doing
All distances are round trip. The south side has trails for every skill level, from paved 1-mile strolls to full-day climbs. Snow lingers on upper trails into July most years. Check trail conditions at the visitor center the morning of your hike.
Trail of the Shadows (Longmire)
Forest loop · mineral springs · stroller-friendly
Myrtle Falls (Paradise)
Paved · waterfall · iconic mountain view
Nisqually Vista (Paradise)
Paved loop · glacier overlook · interpretive signs
Carter Falls (Cougar Rock)
Forest walk · small waterfall · usually empty
Reflection Lakes Loop
Lakeside · mountain reflection · paved sections
Silver Falls via Eastside Trail (Ohanapecosh)
Old-growth · 75-ft waterfall · 2026 access from Grove lot
Bench & Snow Lakes
Two alpine lakes · less crowded than Reflection
Naches Peak Loop
Best fall colors · wildflowers · Tipsoo Lake
Skyline Trail Loop (Paradise)
Panorama Point · 6,800 ft · the signature hike
Comet Falls (Paradise area)
320-ft waterfall · less crowded than Skyline
Pinnacle Peak (Reflection Lakes)
Tatoosh Range views · summit scramble
Camp Muir (Paradise)
Climbing base camp · 10,188 ft · snowfield required
If you're fit enough and you only do one real hike at Mt. Rainier, make it the Skyline Trail Loop. 5.5 miles, 1,700 ft elevation gain, every iconic Rainier view in one trip: wildflower meadows, the Nisqually Glacier up close, Panorama Point at 6,800 ft, Myrtle Falls on the way back. Start at 7 AM to beat the crowds and the afternoon clouds. Bring layers, sunscreen, water, and snacks. Plan 4-5 hours.
Hiking it counter-clockwise (start by going east toward Myrtle Falls, end by descending past Glacier Vista) gets the steep climb out of the way first.
when you need a break
After a hard hike day, or on a cloudy day when the mountain is hidden, here's how to make a slow day count.
Cloudy day at Longmire
If Paradise is socked in, drive only as far as Longmire (2,762 ft, often under the cloud line). Walk the Trail of the Shadows, eat at the National Park Inn, browse the Longmire Museum. You'll still feel like you saw Rainier even when the mountain isn't out.
Christine + Narada Falls drive
Drive the road from Nisqually to Paradise just to stop at every waterfall. Christine, Narada, plus pull-offs for tiny unnamed falls along the Nisqually River. 2-3 hours, mostly stops, no hiking required.
Reflection Lakes sunrise
Set an alarm for 5 AM. Drive to Reflection Lakes in the dark. Watch the sunrise reflect on the still water with the mountain behind it. The most magical 30 minutes you'll spend in the park. Bring a thermos.
Cougar Rock picnic
Cougar Rock Campground (between Longmire and Paradise) has a day-use picnic area in the trees with a creek. Pack a lunch from the National Park Inn or from Ashford, run kids around, eat slow.
Federation Forest backup
If the park entrance lines are unbearable or weather is rough, drive 30 min east to Federation Forest State Park instead. Old-growth interpretive trails, almost no crowds. Discover Pass required. Half-day stop.
Junior Ranger sit-down
Pick up the free Junior Ranger booklet at the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center, find a bench overlooking the meadows, work through it together. The activities take an hour or so and end with kids getting sworn in by a real ranger.
food, by meal
Food inside the park is limited. There are two real restaurants (Paradise Inn dining room and the National Park Inn dining room) plus the Paradise Camp Deli for grab-and-go. The serious food is in Ashford and Packwood, the gateway towns. Stock up before you enter.
Breakfast
In Ashford (south entrance side), Copper Creek Inn RestaurantCasual has been serving travelers since 1946. Big breakfasts, blackberry pie, walk-in. 2 minutes from the Nisqually entrance.
Inside the park, the National Park Inn dining roomNicer at Longmire serves a full breakfast year-round (open in winter when Paradise Inn isn't). Sit-down with mountain views on clear days. The Paradise Inn dining room serves breakfast May-October only.
In Packwood (east side), Cliff DroppersCasual does breakfast burgers and big plates. The local bakery on Main Street is the morning pastry stop on the way to the east side of the park.
Lunch
Paradise Camp DeliQuick is the grab-and-go option at Paradise (sandwiches, soup, bottled drinks, snacks). Open seasonally. Paradise Inn dining roomNicer for sit-down lunch May-October. Reservations help on summer weekends.
National Park Inn dining roomCasual at Longmire for soup, sandwiches, salads year-round. Walk-in.
In Ashford, Wildberry RestaurantCasual for Sherpa-influenced Nepali and American food (the owners are climbers who summited Everest). The momos are worth the stop. Highlander Restaurant for classic American and burgers.
In Packwood, Blue Spruce Saloon & DinerCasual for an actual diner experience with old logging-town vibes.
Dinner
The two best dinner spots near the south side:
Paradise Inn dining roomNicer
The headline park dinner. Pacific Northwest menu in the historic 1916 Great Hall with the massive stone fireplace and exposed-cedar beams. Bourbon pork chop, Dungeness crab cake, mountain views from the windows on clear evenings. Reservations 30-60 days out for prime summer slots. Open mid-May through early October only. About $35-$55 per entree. Adults-leaning but kids welcome.
Copper Creek Inn (Ashford)Casual
The classic gateway-town dinner. Trout, prime rib, blackberry pie. Walk-in usually works. The kind of small-town restaurant where the owner stops by your table. Open year-round. Family-friendly, big portions, fair prices.
Other solid Ashford options: Wildberry RestaurantCasual (Nepali-influenced PNW), Tatoosh Buffet at Whittaker's Bunkhouse for big-plate climbing-camp vibes. In Packwood, Cruiser PizzaCasual is the local-favorite pie joint, Peters Inn RestaurantCasual for steaks and a quiet table.
Treats: Copper Creek Inn's blackberry pie (worth a special drive in season). Whittaker Mountaineering Cafe in Ashford for hot chocolate and pastries before a hike. The Packwood bakery for muffins and cookies. The Paradise Inn gift shop sells huckleberry candy.
Cougar Rock Campground picnic area has shaded creekside tables between Longmire and Paradise. Reflection Lakes has roadside pull-offs perfect for an early-morning sunrise breakfast. Box Canyon picnic area on Stevens Canyon Road has tables with views into the deep canyon. Pack lunch from Ashford or Packwood before you enter the park, food options inside are limited.
amy's check
For traveling families: Rainier's south side near Ashford and Packwood is small-town country. Stock up in Yelm, Olympia, or Puyallup on your way in. Once you're past Eatonville, services thin out.
Costco
Tumwater · 1 hr 15 min west · or Tacoma 1 hr 15 min northwest
Target
Lacey · 1 hr west · closest Target
Trader Joe's
Olympia · 1 hr west · 1530 Black Lake Blvd
Chick-fil-A
Tacoma · 1 hr 15 min northwest · or Lacey
groceries, gas & van basics
There are zero grocery stores inside Mt. Rainier National Park. Two general stores at Longmire and Paradise sell expensive snacks and basics. Real shopping happens in Eatonville, Ashford, or Packwood, and even those are limited. Stock up in Tacoma or Puyallup before you climb up.
In Eatonville (45 min from the entrance), Eatonville IGA covers basics. Real shopping requires the drive to Puyallup or Tacoma.
In Ashford (2 min from the entrance), Suver's General Store has snacks, drinks, and last-minute basics at gas-station prices. Mostly useful for forgotten items, not full grocery runs.
In Packwood (east side, 12 mi from Stevens Canyon), Packwood IGA is small but covers groceries, deli, and produce. Blanton's Market downtown is more of a corner store. The biggest grocery option near the park.
Inside the park, the Longmire General Store and the Paradise Inn gift shop sell snacks, water, postcards, and last-resort basics. Plan for 2-3x normal grocery prices.
No gas stations inside the park. Closest options: Eatonville (45 min from entrance), Elbe (30 min from entrance), Ashford (2 min from entrance), or Packwood for the east side. Top off in Eatonville on the drive in. Park elevation gain burns more fuel than you'd expect.
Drinking water at the Longmire and Paradise visitor areas and at most trailheads. Flush restrooms at Longmire, Paradise, the Grove of the Patriarchs trailhead, and Cougar Rock Campground. The Ohanapecosh restrooms are closed with the rest of the developed area in 2026. Bring water bottles and refill all day.
RV dump station at Cougar Rock Campground (open seasonally, between Longmire and Paradise). Ohanapecosh Campground dump station is closed for the 2026 rehabilitation. The nearest dump on the southeast side is at Maple Grove Resort, 28 miles west on US-12. Public trash bins at all visitor centers and major pullouts.
Stock up in Puyallup or Tacoma at Costco, Trader Joe's, or Fred Meyer before you head up to the park. Eatonville and Ashford are the last stops before the entrance, and prices climb fast. Pack a cooler with sandwiches, fruit, and drinks for the day at Paradise. A picnic at Cougar Rock with food you brought from town beats a $14 sandwich at the Camp Deli every time.
inns, lodges & van
Two historic inns inside the park, plus a string of small lodges and cabins in Ashford and Packwood. Inside-the-park stays book 6-9 months ahead for prime summer dates. Don't wait.
Budget · $130-$220/night
Climber-style basics, real character
Whittaker's Bunkhouse in Ashford is the climber-vibe stay run by the Whittaker family (Lou Whittaker was a legendary Rainier guide, his brother Jim was the first American to summit Everest). Shared and private rooms, a cafe, climbing gear shop. Sleep where actual mountaineers sleep before they summit.
Hotel Packwood is a 1912 historic small hotel in Packwood with simple shared-bath rooms. Cheap, atmospheric, walkable to the Blue Spruce Saloon.
Mid-range · $200-$380/night
In-park or just outside, family-friendly
The National Park Inn at Longmire is the year-round inside-the-park stay. 25 small rooms in the historic 1906 building. Some rooms share bathrooms, all have rocking chairs on the porch with mountain views. The only inside-park lodging open in winter.
Stormking Spa & Cabins in Ashford has 4 individual cabins, each with a private hot tub on the deck. The kind of stay that makes a Rainier trip feel like a vacation. Adults-leaning but families with older kids welcome.
Crest Trail Lodge in Packwood has comfortable rooms with mountain views, a hot tub, breakfast included. Family rooms available. Best value-to-comfort ratio on the east side.
Splurge · $400+/night
Once-in-a-trip stays
Paradise Inn is the splurge that defines the trip. The 1916 historic hotel built from cedar logs cut in the park, sitting at 5,400 feet right in the wildflower meadows. 121 rooms, the massive Great Hall with the stone fireplace, the dining room with mountain views from the windows. Open mid-May through early October only. Reservations 6-9 months ahead for prime summer dates. Some rooms share bathrooms (those are the cheapest), Annex rooms have private baths.
Alexander's Country Inn in Ashford is the elegant Victorian stay 1 mi from the entrance. 12 rooms, breakfast included, fly-fishing pond on the grounds. Adults-focused but families welcome.
Ashford and Packwood both have strong vacation rental markets, especially for cabins. Look for cabins right on the road from Ashford to the entrance for the shortest morning drive in. Vrbo and Airbnb both work. For families of 4+, vacation rentals beat hotels on cost for stays of 3+ nights. Book 3-4 months ahead for July and August.
Van life · campgrounds
Real options · book early
Cougar Rock Campground (between Longmire and Paradise) has 173 sites, no hookups, max RV length 35 ft. About $30/night. Open late May through early October. Reservations through Recreation.gov. The closest in-park camping to Paradise.
Ohanapecosh Campground is CLOSED for all of 2026 for major rehabilitation (185 sites being upgraded). Expected to reopen for the 2027 season.
Big Creek Campground (Forest Service, just outside the Nisqually entrance off WA-706) has 30 sites, $20/night, no hookups. Open May-September. Cheaper than in-park camping, less competitive for reservations.
La Wis Wis Campground (Forest Service, near Packwood) has 100 sites along the Cowlitz River, $24/night. Open May-September.
Mounthaven Resort in Ashford has full-hookup RV sites and cabins. Year-round, more expensive ($60-$100/night for sites). The only full-hookup option that close to the entrance.
Where you can't sleep: No vehicle camping at trailheads, pullouts, or visitor centers. Park rangers patrol overnight and will issue tickets. National forest dispersed camping is allowed in some areas of Gifford Pinchot National Forest (south and east of the park) but check the specific district rules.
Paradise Inn: 9-13 months ahead for prime summer weekends. Reservations open 13 months out. The Paradise Inn is the most competitive lodging on the entire trip.
National Park Inn at Longmire: 6-9 months ahead for summer. Easier than Paradise because it has fewer rooms.
Cougar Rock Campground: 6 months ahead for prime summer weekends.
Ashford and Packwood lodging: 3-4 months ahead for July-August. Last-minute often works for shoulder season.
Vacation rentals: 3-4 months ahead for summer. Many have 2-3 night minimums.
Shoulder season (June, September, early October): 1-2 months out usually fine. September is the sleeper-pick for Rainier, fall colors arriving, fewer crowds, weather still good.
Winter (November-March): Last-minute usually works. Only Longmire-area lodging is in-park year-round.